OLFA-EMBROIDERY

What is embroidery?

Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials by stitching designs using a thread or yarn with the help of an embroidery needle. Sometimes other materials such as metal strips and precious stones may be added using a decorative stitching technique.

Embroidery can be done by hand or by machine. Machine embroidery is where special embroidery machines are used to do the stitching. Hand embroidery is where stitching of designs is done by hand using needles. Some of the things that can be decorated by embroidery include dresses, hand bags, wall hangings, pillow cases, bed covers, chair covers and many others. Although the process is time consuming and painstaking, it gives wonderful results.

Like all other forms of crafting, embroidery demands creativity, time and imagination.

History

Embroidery can be traced far back to the Iron Age when man started using thread to join pieces of fur to make clothes. Man also discovered that not only could he use thread to make decorative patterns on the clothes but also add decorations of colourful beads, stones and bones on those patterns.

In ancient cultures such as Persia, India, China, Japan, Byzantium and Baroque Europe, embroidery was a very important technique. Elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects and household items were seen as symbols of wealth. During the Medieval era, embroidery was used to decorate handkerchiefs, uniforms, flags, shoes, robes, tunics, horse trappings, covers and others.

Before the discovery of embroidery machines during the Industrial Revolution, embroidery employed very many people. However, the discovery of embroidery machines during the Industrial Revolution ensured mass production of embroidered objects out competing hand made embroidery. Hand embroidery has since remained a mere form of art and hobby.

BASIC EMBROIDERY PROCESS

Hand embroidery process starts with sketching a design to be embroidered. The design is then transferred to the fabric by tracing on a lit table or using carbon paper.

The fabric is mounted on an embroidery hoop. The purpose of the hoop is to stretch the fabric for easy stitching.

Then using an embroidery needle and embroidery thread, the design patterns are sewn onto the fabric. Threads of different colours can be used to different sections of the design according to the original design.

EMBROIDERY TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Fabric: Fabric is the most basic requirement in embroidery. Almost all fabrics can be used. However, for a beginner, cotton and muslin are the most recommendable.

Embroidery needles: Hand embroidery needles are of different types ranging from 0 to 10. For a beginner 8, 9 and 10 are the best.

Embroidery threads: Are needed to stitch patterns on to the fabric. Different types of threads are used. However, cotton threads are the best for beginners.

Pattern: For successful and beautiful embroidery, good design patterns are needed. Patterns can be created by drawing and sketching through creative thinking.

A pair of scissors: This is needed for cutting fabrics and threads. A blade is an alternative.

Lead pencil: Is needed for transferring the design onto the fabric.

Carbon paper: This is needed for tracing the design on to the fabric. Carbon papers can be obtained at your local stationery shop.

Embroidery hoop: This is helpful for tightening the fabric thus easing the work and ensuring a clean design. These frames are available in different shapes and sizes.

Stitches used in embroidery

There are different types of stitches used in embroidery some of which are illustrated here. We will look at these stitches in detail. These different stitches are all grouped into four major types based up on what they are used for in embroidery.

• Outline stitches: Like their name suggests, these stitches are used for outlining the elements of the design.
• Border stitches: Are used to protect edges and to add texture to the design.
• Detached stitches: These are stitches used to create decorative details or mass filling of open areas of the design.
• Filling stitches; Are used to create shading or to solidly fill in a design area.

TYPES OF STITCHES

There are very many different types of stitches. However, at your level, below are the stitches you should learn. They are;

Backstitch

This stitch is mostly used for outlines of designs as well as straight and curved lines.

It is also used as a foundation of compound stitches.

How to make backstitches

• Work from right to left, from the back of the fabric.
• Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric at 1 and back down at 2.
• Move left and bring the needle up at 3, then back down at 1.
• Continue stitching until you get enough length of line.

Split Stitch

This stitch is veiy similar to the backstitch. The only difference here is that instead of coming up from your last stitch as it is with the back stick, the needle comes up right in the middle of it. Split stitches are used for outlining, straight and curved lines and filling shapes by using rows that are very close to one another. A split stitch can be used for the same purpose as a backstitch.

How to make split stitches

• Work from left to right.
• Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2. •Bring the needle back up at 3, splitting the center of the previous stitch.
• Take the needle down at 4 and then back up at 2. Continue stitching.

Tips

Make shorter stitches for curvy lines.

Use it to outline a shape before stitching a satin stitch to create a raised effect.

Running Stitch

Here, the needle runs in and out of the fabric with consistence in stitches and spaces between them. It is used for outlines and straight or curved lines.

Tip

Keep an even tension and avoid pulling the thread or the stitches will pull together.

Blanket Stitch

This can be used for outlining borders and for thicker lines. Blanket stitches are often used for straight and gently curved lines, borders and finishing edges of materials such as blankets, towels and hems on clothes.

Satin Stitch

This stitch is used to fill an area with a single colour by filling the space with the thread. It is also very useful when solid filling shapes and for creating monograms.

How to make a satin stitch

• Begin by making a single stitch. Do this by bringing the needle up at 1, down at 2, then back up right next to 1 and down right next to 2.
• Make a stitch parallel to the first stitch as close as possible.
• Repeat to create a solid shape of parallel stitches. Make sure the thread lies flat without twisting to produce a smooth look.

Tips

• Outline the shape first. When stitching, get as close to the outlines as possible to create a satin stitch that looks nice and full.
• Don’t continue stitching at the back of your work to avoid wasting the thread on top of making your work bulky. To avoid this, bring the thread to the front for the first time right next to the outline on the left. Then, bring it across and down next to the right outline. Instead of crossing over to the left side of the outline on the back of the fabric, just bring the needle right back up next to where you just pushed it through.

Chain stitch

Chain stitch is the basis of a large group of decorative stitches. A chain stitch can be used to stitch straight and curved lines as well as filling shapes.

How to make a chain stitch

• Work from top to bottom.
• Bring the needle up at 1 and then re-insert the needle in the same hole, forming a loop.

8.

• Bring the needle up at 2 and pull the thread to tighten the loop until a desired shape is achieved.
• Repeat multiple stitches to create a chain. •To end the row, make a small stitch over the last loop to hold it in place to secure the thread on the backside.

Tip

Keep your thread tension even to create a consistent looking chain.

Stem Stitch

This is basically an outline stitch. This stitch is usually used for filling by stitching rows alongside each other. It is also used to make fine straight and curved lines around edges and making veins and stems for plants.

How to make stem stitches

• Work from left to right.
• Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2. •Bring the needle back up halfway between 1 and 2 at 3, just slightly above the first stitch. •Be sure to keep the thread below the needle. •Continue stitching to create an outline.

Cross Stitch

This stitch is used for borders and filling if worked in adjacent rows.

How to make this stitch

• Stitching from left to right, bring the needle up at 1, down at 2, then bring it up at 3 and down at 4. Bring it at 5 and down at 6. •Continue stitching until the end of the line. •Start back stitching from right to left, make crosses by bringing the needle up at 9 and down at 10, up at 1 land down at 12.
• Continue until all crosses are stitched.

Tip: Be sure to keep the top stitch on the cross the same direction throughout. French knot

This stitch is mainly used for decorative dots, filling flower centers, leaves, plants and eyes.

To make this stitch follow the steps below; •Bring the needle up at 1.

• Hold the thread tight with the other hand and wrap the thread twice around the end of the needle.
• Gently pull the thread so that the wrapped threads tighten and while holding it tight, insert the needle next to 1. Pull the thread through onto the backside until the knot is formed and lies securely on the surface.
• To make a larger knot, wrap the thread around the needle many times or use a thicker thread.

Tips

• For an even line of stitching, keep the height of the stitches even.
• To vary the look of the stitch, change the height of each stitch. Feather Stitch

Is mainly used for decorative border edges, seam embellishment, foliage and stems.

How to make a feather stitch

• Work vertically, from top to bottom.
• Bring the needle up at 1 and back down to the right at 2, leaving a loop on the front. •Bring the needle back up at 3 and pull the thread to shape the loop as desired.•Insert the needle to the right of 4 at 5, leaving a loop of thread on the front.

♦Bring the needle up at 6 and pull the thread to shape the loop.

• Take the next stitch to the left and continue stitching.
• To finish, take a small stitch over the last loop.

Other types of stitches

General stitching tips

• Keep your hands clean and avoid handling food and drinks when stitching. •Keep your tension even to create smooth uniform stitches.
• Pull gently when stitching. Tight pulling will result into wrinkled work. •Only stitch connected areas with a continuous thread. Do not extend your thread from one area to another.
• For a nice consistent look, make stitches of the same size.
• If your design has rounded bends and twists, keep your stitch size small enough to enable you use several stitches for the curved part of the design.

EMBROIDERY STEP BY STEP PROCESS

Now that we have looked at the different tools and equipments as well as the different types of stitches used in embroidery, we can go ahead to look at the step by step embroidery process.

Step One: Making a design

Create your embroidery design on a white piece of paper using coloured pencils capturing all the colour impressions. End the sketching session with a fine and clear outline of your design preferably in black bold ink for easy transfer to the fabric.

Step Two: Acquiring tools and materials.

Make sure you have the tools and materials needed. On page 77 is the list of things you will need.

Step Three: Preparing the fabric.

The fabric should be washed before you begin stitching to ensure that it does not shrink afterward. Allow the fabric to dry and iron it to remove all creases to allow even stitching. Ironing also removes wrinkles which are hard to remove after stitching.

Step Four: Transferring the design

There are numerous methods for transferring designs onto the fabric depending on the colour and thickness of the fabric. Below are the most common methods:

Place the design onto a sunny glass window or light box. Place the fabric on top. This will make the design very visible on the fabric. Then using a pencil or soluble pen, trace the design onto the fabric.

Alternatively, place a piece of carbon paper onto the fabric and place the design on top.

Using a pencil or pen, trace your design on to the fabric.

You can also use stencils especially if there is a need to repeat the pattern.

Step Five: Fix the fabric to the hoop. To fix

your fabric to an embroidery hoop, loosen the screw or nut on the outer embroidery hoop and separate the inner and outer rings. The outer ring will hold the fabric over the inner ring once you have inserted the fabric.

Place the inner ring on a flat surface. Place the part of the fabric you want to stitch over it, then put the outer ring over the fabric and press until the bottom ring is fitted inside the outer ring. Tug the corners of the fabric slightly to make the fabric taut. Make sure it is as tight as possible so the fabric won’t slip out.

Tighten the nut or screw securely. Your fabric is now in place and ready to embroider.

Step Six: Start stitching

There are two options on how to start your stitching;

Thread your needle by sliding the thread through the needle’s eye and pull the thread through. Create a knot in the end of your thread by wrapping the end of the thread over itself to make a loop, push the end through the loop and pull. Trim off any excess thread.

Alternatively, pull your threaded needle up onto the front side of the fabric, leaving a one inch tail of thread on the back.

Hold the tail of thread against the back of the fabric in the direction you plan to stitch and work the first 4 to 5 stitches over it to secure it into place.

Be sure to check the backside to confirm that your stitches are covering the thread and trim any loose ends and continue to stitch.

Start by stitching over the traced lines. Stitch and fill open areas with an embroidery stitch of your choice shown on pages 78 to 81.

Step Seven: End your stitching

You can end your stitching b}^ bad .stitching. Do this by running your threaded needle under the last few stitches on the back of the fabric to securely hold the thread as illustrated in fig 6.31. After backstitching, turn your hoop upside down and using a pair of scissors, trim off the excess thread leaving a hanging tail of about an inch.

Alternatively, you can knot the thread. To do this, start by making a tiny stitch by sliding the needle under a few threads of the fabric. Pull the thread leaving a small loop. Insert the needle through the loop and pull to form a knot. Poke the needle through the knot to create a double knot as illustrated in fig 6.32.

1. Z) If you make an error and notice it right away, correct the stitches by unthreading your needle and gently pulling out the stitches.

Olf the error is already surrounded by other stitches, working from the backside, carefully cut the stitches with the tip of embroidery scissors and remove the threads.

Z>To end your stitching, move to a new area, change colors or re-thread your needle, secure the thread behind your work before you trim off the end. To do this, turn your work upside down. Push the threaded needle under a group of stitches at the back next to the area you just worked. If there is a single line of stitches instead of a group, push the threaded needle under the stitch several times tightly securing it and trim.

ONever leave your work in the hoop for an extended period of time to avoid creases that may be difficult to remove.

Warning

• Be careful when stitching such that you don’t pierce your finger. •Avoid knotting embroidery threads because they cause bumps on the fabric.